Well I this was my first thanksgiving in two years (unless you want to call ordering Papa Johns last year at the Univ of Hawaii). I saw a decent sized swell coming in for today earlier in the week that looked like it was going to be fun, 3-4ft offshore. I decided I was going to head to Asbury Park (where we were having our dinner today) early to get a surf in before dinner. Woke up around 5 and checked the report again, 1-2ft.... Fuck it, I went up anyway. Got there at 8am and saw 3ft, clean, offshore minibarrels and not a cloud in the sky! I was frothing, couldnt get the wetsuit on quick enough. Surfed for 4 hours and had one of my best sessions yet, me and 3 other guys out, wave after wave. Unfortunately, it completely died out around noon. Didnt get any pictures surfing but I snapped a few when I got out of the water. Asbury Park is such a rad little town, I cant wait to get up there again to surf.
No comments:
Post a Comment