Friday, November 18, 2011

Playa Negra and the Countryside

On the last excursion before the end of the trip, we went north to Playa Negra to meet up with Oliver and Brian who travelled there a few days prior.  After an insane drive through the country and seeing the true greenery and forests of the country, we made our way towards the coast.  We knew of a big swell that was hitting that day and we couldnt have gotten there fast enough.  We got there and it was firing, 7-10 feet, way bigger than everything ive ever surfed in my life, but i still went out.  After a 20 minute paddle out, it was just me and the boys with sets rolling in left and right.  I sat for a while to get used to it and study the waves.  30 minutes later I saw a perfect wave roll in and went for it.  Good drop, set my line, butttt the nose caught and I went over the falls and taken to the bottom.  My lease caught on a rock and I was held down for 20 or 30 seconds getting tossed around like a ragdoll.  I thought it was over for me, but a break in the waves allowed me to unstrap my lease and get to the surface.  I took 2 more waves on the head but I got back out after a little and wanted more.  I caught a few more smaller waves before it got too big, 10-15 feet.  I went in and called it a day.  Great trip, great waves and stories to scare the shit out of my dad with.  We left with Oliver and Brian back to Tamarindo for a last night at the bars before they went back and scored the waves of their lives.








local supporters



brian on the day after 

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