On the last excursion before the end of the trip, we went north to Playa Negra to meet up with Oliver and Brian who travelled there a few days prior. After an insane drive through the country and seeing the true greenery and forests of the country, we made our way towards the coast. We knew of a big swell that was hitting that day and we couldnt have gotten there fast enough. We got there and it was firing, 7-10 feet, way bigger than everything ive ever surfed in my life, but i still went out. After a 20 minute paddle out, it was just me and the boys with sets rolling in left and right. I sat for a while to get used to it and study the waves. 30 minutes later I saw a perfect wave roll in and went for it. Good drop, set my line, butttt the nose caught and I went over the falls and taken to the bottom. My lease caught on a rock and I was held down for 20 or 30 seconds getting tossed around like a ragdoll. I thought it was over for me, but a break in the waves allowed me to unstrap my lease and get to the surface. I took 2 more waves on the head but I got back out after a little and wanted more. I caught a few more smaller waves before it got too big, 10-15 feet. I went in and called it a day. Great trip, great waves and stories to scare the shit out of my dad with. We left with Oliver and Brian back to Tamarindo for a last night at the bars before they went back and scored the waves of their lives.
local supporters
brian on the day after
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